【大阪】エンジニア→パン屋に転身！８０年酵母を受け継ぐ２代目パン職人の想いに迫る。 第94話｜大阪市「コーヒー＆ベーカリー アルル」

【大阪】エンジニア→パン屋に転身！８０年酵母を受け継ぐ２代目パン職人の想いに迫る。 第94話｜大阪市「コーヒー＆ベーカリー アルル」

Yodogawa Ward, Osaka City
“Coffee & Bakery Arles” House-roasted coffee and
natural yeast bread passed down for 80 years Many foreign customers visit
in search of authentic bread Originally, I joined a company
as a system engineer But I quit the company (and became a baker) Director）Did you start with no experience?
Owner）Yes So I desperately learned (bread making) At first, I really felt
I couldn’t do a single thing I couldn’t even roll the dough properly The frustration I felt back then
was indescribable While getting lots of help
(from the people around me) I somehow managed to improve After going through that time,
being able to run (this bakery) now is my pride We follow the story of a baker
who keeps challenging himself from scratch Yodogawa Ward, Osaka City At 5 a.m.,
the owner arrives at the bakery Chef Nakagawa）This one is “baguette” The “Lodève” dough
has a higher water content Chef Nakagawa）This is raisin yeast For baguette, I use this
and a tiny bit of dry yeast I prepare this about once
every three days You can probably see
it’s fizzing This is called “levain,”
a traditional French starter It ferments using only rye and wheat This is the levain starter It’s a starter with a bit of sourness Director）Is this the yeast passed down from the previous generation?
Chef Nakagawa）Yes This was the reason
I took over the bakery Originally, I was working
as a system engineer But while working,
I enjoyed coffee as a hobby I went to roasting classes
and tried various things (At one point, I got the chance)
to serve coffee at an event As a system engineer,
I never interacted with customers That was the nature of the job But while serving coffee in that setting people simply bought it A cup of coffee for 300 or 400 yen They said “It was delicious”
and handed me money That carried a certain weight for me It gave me a real sense of fulfillment Even though it was only
300 or 400 yen, a small amount I thought this exchange
was really wonderful Offering something I found delicious and receiving money from someone
who also enjoyed it felt amazing From there,
I became interested in serving coffee to people I quit my job
and started a café by renting space A complete shift from engineer,
Chef Nakagawa dove into the food industry While running a café,
another turning point came At a café called “Kissa Heibon” I started serving hand-drip coffee with our own roasted beans
and began offering morning sets The reason I started serving morning sets was At first, the bread from “Arles” was just too delicious I still don’t really know why, but the lady at the beauty salon next door
gave me a bread slicer I felt like it was some kind of
sign from God So I started serving morning sets
(using bread from “Arles”) I often bought loaves of bread from them And little by little, I got to know (the previous owner)
and became friends with him Then, the former master fell ill… And there was no one to take over the bakery At that time, the only one baking bread
was the master himself So the former “Arles” had no choice but to close They were looking for someone
to carry on “Arles” I felt it had to be me,
so I took it over and renewed the bakery Director）Did you start with no experience?
Chef Nakagawa）Yes The master taught me
(bread making) But it was only for three months I learned desperately Not just me, but together with the craftsmen
who were at “Arles” at the time and with the help of
(the previous master’s) wife Somehow I managed to learn After that, while running the shop,
I gradually kept studying To preserve the bread of the former owner,
Chef Nakagawa challenged himself with no prior experience This is a bread that has been around
since the old “Arles” (The breads from the old “Arles”) About half of them are still here now The other half are breads I created
after renewing the bakery Rock salt Poppy seeds D’mande (almond cream) Almonds Homemade tomato sauce (It’s made by simmering) tomatoes, sugar,
basil, and oregano Homemade egg salad Sausage Cheese Using the “80-year-old levain yeast,”
they prepare the dough for their popular “shokupan” Ice water Chef Nakagawa）Recently I switched the flour
to domestically produced More than 60% is wheat from Hyogo Prefecture It’s 100% domestically grown wheat Yudane (gelatinized flour starter) Fresh yeast They also add levain starter
and continue mixing the dough The “hard shokupan,”
which had been baking since early morning, is ready Chef Nakagawa）This one is a product
called hard shokupan It’s a bit firmer
than the shokupan we’re kneading now It has a higher ratio of levain starter It’s a bread that emphasizes that flavor (levain) a bit more. We use levain for the country bread (campagne), which is a starter often used for fairly hard-type breads. When I was talking about the 80-year-old yeast, someone said, “Why not put it in all the breads?” So I thought, “Alright, let’s try it,” and added it, and the bread became incredibly delicious. It also gives a richer aroma. The dough is finished. Chef Nakagawa）Since it’s a yudane shokupan,
it has a chewy texture. The bread is called “Mochi-Mochi Shokupan.” And because we add levain, it has a slightly toasty aroma. It’s been very popular
since the previous owner’s time, and many customers come specifically
for the shokupan. I think our regulars probably watch over me
like parents would. Director）Do they give you feedback on the taste?
Chef Nakagawa）A ton. Sometimes I get scolded, too. But these days, quite often, they tell me, “It’s getting better.” I’m being raised by them, in a way. The shaped dough goes into the loaf pans. Into the proofer (fermentation cabinet). French toast made
with “Mochi-Mochi Shokupan” Mayonnaise Drop a raw egg inside
a border of mayonnaise. Black pepper Butter Chef Nakagawa）I’m making a “tartine” now. This one is a green onion tartine. Pile on a lot of green onions. This, too, has been around since the previous owner. Roast chicken seasoned
with rosemary Shredded cheese Paprika Chef Nakagawa）When I’m baking, it often feels
like the former master is right beside me. For example, I’m putting cheese on now, right? He used to say all the time, “Don’t feed the griddle!” He called it “feeding the griddle”
when cheese fell underneath. I can still hear him now. Honoring the former master’s words,
he finishes the breads generously topped. The melon pan has finished baking. Melon pan Staff arrive for their shift
and display the freshly baked breads. Making egg sandwiches
with “homemade egg salad” You can also enjoy authentic,
house-roasted coffee in the shop. ☕️ Customers are already arriving. I just drop by on a whim
on my way to and from work. The salted rolls sell out by evening, so when I come in the morning,
I always buy the salted roll. Everything tastes delicious. I get the impression that new breads
are released quite often. Chef Nakagawa）We call this campagne “levain.” Maybe that’s because the former master
used to call it that. Back in the former master’s time, levain was only baked once or twice a week. Now, I bake it every day. Because there are people
who love it and buy it. That’s really my pride. Cheese levain Berry and cream cheese levain Scoring the levain (campagne) The levain (campagne) is baked. Chef Nakagawa）I judge doneness
by looking at this browning here
and the coloring inside. And the sound when you tap
the bottom of the bread with your finger. It should resonate properly inside, like the sound of a drum, isn’t it amazing? That’s proof the inside has risen nicely
and baked through. The freshly baked campagne
is placed on display. Customers enjoying breakfast
in the café space. The bread is warmed up. Morning toast Where are you from?
— Spain. Spanish bakeries are different things so it’s good to have a change. I recommend everyone to come here because it’s really cozy and the food is great I think this is the best coffee
I’ve had in Japan. I’ve been here for about three days, but it’s really good coffee. I recommend visiting the bakery and enjoying the food because they are amazing. Espresso is extracted with the machine. “Americano” – espresso diluted with hot water Milk You can also enjoy
house-roasted coffee with the bread. ☕️ Staff）Even though it’s a bakery,
the coffee is house-roasted. We recommend all the coffee menu items, and we serve a special blend
that can only be found here at Arles as espresso. It’s a blend you can’t drink
at our other sister shops. Since the types of beans change by the day, they’re swapped out each time, so you can enjoy the unique encounter
of the moment. Right now, we have five varieties of beans: Fruity beans from Thailand and two kinds from Peru, the bitter coffees are Brazil and Colombia, and the mild coffee
is Guatemalan. All of our coffee is what’s called “specialty coffee.” It’s considered the highest grade of beans. And we brew each cup individually. We do a tasting. Organic tea leaves from “Asuka Tea.” Customer）Today I’m just having a drink. On days when I want to eat bread, I enjoy it together with a drink set. Director）What do you recommend?
Customer）Café latte. There’s a hard bread filled with
cream cheese and ham, and that’s the most delicious. A calm, relaxing time flows here. Foreign customer）Thank you, it was delicious. Staff）I’m glad. Thank you. Blueberry jam Cream cheese Chef Nakagawa）The cheese is “BUKO.” It has a refreshing acidity that’s delicious. The former master casually used this too,
and I still use it today. Wrap the filling in dough. Honey nuts Score the dough. Seeking the authentic flavor of levain,
it is loved by foreign customers as well. You can also see customers enjoying their purchased
bread and coffee on the terrace seats. Director）There are many foreign customers, aren’t there? Staff）Especially a lot today. Since Shin-Osaka Station is nearby, when foreigners travel around Japan
by Shinkansen, many of them tend to stay around here. And since it’s within walking distance
from Shin-Osaka Station, I think they find our bakery
while looking for one nearby. Probably they really like the flavor
of our hard breads, and I feel our coffee is also highly praised. It was very delicious. Thank you. The Lodève dough, punched down in the morning. Stretch it out a little. If you handle it too much,
the bread gets squashed and sticky. So I try not to touch it too much. Depending on how you use your hands then, the air bubbles might collapse. When it becomes bread, it must rise properly. Since it has high water content,
it can turn soggy. And it won’t bake through. Then it becomes unsellable. So handling it is extremely important. Shape the dough carefully while handling it gently. Cut the dough into large pieces. Score (slash) the dough. The Lodève dough is baked
in a gas oven. Chef Nakagawa）It’s a high-hydration bread
made using levain starter as well. And since it’s high-hydration, it’s also gentle on the stomach. Plus, it has levain starter in it, so all the more so. The Lodève has finished baking. We’ll make sandwiches with the baked Lodève. Season the chicken with rosemary, salt, and pepper. Cook the seasoned chicken. Making tamagoyaki (Japanese omelet) Milk Tamagoyaki Bacon Pepper Cut the Lodève for sandwiches. Stuff the Lodève with plenty of fillings
and homemade tomato sauce. Cut it in half. The chicken has finished cooking. Place the sliced roast chicken
inside the Lodève. Homemade carrot râpée Staff）The chicken sandwich is ready. Director）Please.
Staff）Thank you very much. We also ordered an iced blend coffee. Rustic sandwich with homemade roast chicken
and carrot râpée Cream bread with homemade custard Iced blend coffee Start baking the Mochi-Mochi Shokupan. Next, shape the baguette dough. Chef Nakagawa）For our baguette, the flavor of the raisin
natural yeast is emphasized, and since the dough is matured for about 20 hours, I think you can really taste
the sweetness of the yeast and the wheat. Chef Nakagawa）Honestly, shaping baguettes
was really hard at first. The master would just do it effortlessly. I thought he might be a wizard. I read all kinds of books, and watched YouTube, too— observing how various craftsmen move
and use their hands, and kept trying it myself over and over. Then what I studied on my own
and what the master told me started to line up. Things the master told me at first
that I didn’t understand— I’d go, “Oh, so that’s what he meant.” The strength of that generation— I truly think it’s monstrous (in a good way). Now we split tasks among several people
for prep and baking, but the master used to do all of that alone. It honestly made me panic. My inability—my own frustration. At first I couldn’t even
round the dough. The frustration I felt back then
was indescribable. At the very beginning, it felt like
I couldn’t do anything at all. The master encouraged me, saying,
“If you keep at it, you’ll get it.” Our time working together was short, but it really made me realize
it isn’t about how long it is. After going through that period,
being able to do this now— that is my pride. For Chef Nakagawa, inheriting the flavor and spirit of the former master was a major challenge. The Mochi-Mochi Shokupan has finished baking. Two types of baguettes are being baked. Score the dough with a lame knife. Chef Nakagawa）The regular baguette is easy to use even for simple sandwiches. The tradition baguette is baked a little longer than the regular baguette, so the outside has a more crisp finish. People who like more of a charred flavor prefer that one (the tradition). First, the “Arles Baguette” has finished baking. Next, the “Baguette Tradition” has finished baking. By baking it well, the outside becomes crispy
while the inside remains chewy—that’s the hallmark of the tradition. Making Margherita-style pizza
with “homemade tomato sauce” Top it with tomatoes and shredded cheese. Making a gorgonzola pizza
with “shredded cheese” Gorgonzola cheese Grated cheese The pizza has finished baking. Basil sauce Drizzle honey
on the gorgonzola pizza. Staff）This is gorgonzola and honey pizza. Butter is folded into croissant dough. The dough is rolled out thin with a machine. Meiji “fermented butter” Fold a sheet of butter
into the rolled-out dough. Stretch the butter-layered dough
with the machine. Chef Nakagawa）So I’ve folded it twice now,
and I’ll let it rest once. Let the butter-layered dough rest in the refrigerator. Foreign customers continue to arrive. Honey cheese bread We suggest drinks to pair
with the breads customers choose. Pour white grape juice
into a wine glass. Staff）That’s grape juice. It’s a very rich grape juice. The fruitiness and the essence of the grape skin are condensed,
and it’s delicious. That’s why we serve it in a wine glass. Our owner really loves natural wine, and levain (nature campagne)
pairs wonderfully with natural wine. If it suits your schedule, we also highly recommend
natural wine. We host a “wine bar” irregularly on Friday or Saturday nights. Here we serve our hard breads, including hard shokupan and shokupan,
all-you-can-eat. We also offer a snack bread set for 500 yen, alongside glasses of natural wine,
making for a casual wine bar experience. Olive oil Rock salt Chef Nakagawa）I originally just loved bread. I was made to realize, “I really do love bread.” The appearance of bread changes every day. Truly, it looks different every single time. Honestly, even every second it changes. Each dough is different. Sometimes they look similar, but the expression changes day by day. So I think, “At this moment, it’s best if I do it this way,” and I act accordingly. In the beginning, I thought, “This should work,” but it didn’t. And I’d think, “Why isn’t it working?” That was tough at the time, but the joy when things went well
was that much greater. I wanted to deliver more of the bread called “Levain Nature Campagne” to people. That was really my biggest wish. I feel it was entrusted to me (by the former master). It has been passed down for 80 years. And it’s only been preserved because the master
was such an old-fashioned, stubborn man. He stuck to his own way— he decided to keep baking
and protecting the starter he inherited. If he hadn’t kept baking, it would have died out. He did that for over twenty years. That weight is incredible, isn’t it? There is actually a starter that exists
as the result of that accumulation. So I feel strongly that we must also protect it. And from that, wonderful bread is born. I want to share it with many people. Arles’ breads, and especially the Levain Nature Campagne—
I want to spread them. And through this work,
what I’ve strongly realized is: I think Japanese bakeries are amazing. They bake such a wide variety,
from hard breads to soft breads. And there are also dramatic seasonal changes. I realized the methods change completely
between winter and summer. And everyone here manages that. I think the quality of Japanese bread is incredible. There probably isn’t another country like it. There are uniquely Japanese breads like anpan,
melon pan, and cream bread, and yet people also bake baguettes as if it’s normal. I really admire this Japanese bread culture. I believe it’s truly a culture Japan can proudly share with the world. That spirit of craftsmanship among Japanese people absolutely— I think it’s something so great
that it should spread across the world. While protecting the bread-making of Arles, I also want to properly share it as Japanese bread-making, and send it out to the whole world.

【コーヒー＆ベーカリー アルル】
今回は、新大阪の人気パン屋「コーヒー＆ベーカリー アルル」に密着です🎥
先代店主から”８０年酵母”と”パン作り”を引き継いだ店主・中川シェフは
元エンジニアからパン職人になった異色の経歴👀
新たな道を奮闘するパン職人の想いに迫ります！

📮ご感想をお寄せいただけると嬉しいです
https://forms.gle/1AuDagF8XrrEDA9e9

詳細な情報は字幕機能をONにしてください。

〜パンものがたり Bread Story 〜
すべてのパンにはものがたりがある。
パンに携わる人々の裏側に密着し、パンに対する想いや歴史、
背景のものがたりを全世界へ届けるプロジェクト。
パンものがたりは世界をつなぐ。©パンものがたり https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCAVWa1Bbft6hGUrfKe9FENw

私たちが取材したお店が下記のURLから確認できます。
https://goo.gl/maps/D35kXS1RsHzvJihW6

【店舗情報】
店名: コーヒー＆ベーカリー アルル
住所: 大阪府大阪市淀川区東三国４丁目１７−８
地図: https://maps.app.goo.gl/egdQV2RwmCRDpcWGA
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/coffee.bakery.arles?igsh=MXV6Z3JocTE3bmxqZg==

【チャプター】
0:00 ダイジェスト
0:52 本編
6:04 先代店主から引き継いだ８０年酵母
9:36 もちもち食パン生地の分割
12:13 具沢山タルティーヌ作り
14:59 午前７時３０分開店
16:56 ８０年酵母のカンパーニュ作り
20:13 スペインから訪れたお客様
21:13 こだわりの自家焙煎コーヒー
26:50 外国人客に愛されるお店
32:42 お買い物
34:44 バゲット作り
40:45 クロワッサンの折り込み
46:40 店主インタビュー

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【著作】
株式会社FOOD MEDIA JAPAN
パンもの撮影：松田紗和乃、澤田侑祐
パンもの編集：榮阪初音、飯伏詩桜、白井祐美

#ものがたりドキュメンタリー #大阪パン #パン屋 #baking #breadrecipe #breadfactory #asmr #bluezones